Sewing

History of Sewing

The first sewing process was very simple; the two layers of fabrics are attached with the help of sharp edge stone with some type of thread then the hole at the back is developed in needles which makes the sewing process easy.

Later on metal needles are developed. In year 1760 the Saint Thomas of England observed how the shoemakers prepare shoes and invented simple type of sewing machine. In 1834 Sir Isaac Singer of U. K. invented the domestic sewing machine and in 1900 the Singer Company developed industrial sewing machines.

Difference between domestic and industrial sewing machines:

 

Domestic	Industrial
1. Low speed (500spm)	1. High speed (up to 5000spm)
2. Less Production	2. More Production
3. Manual operation 4. Poor quality	3. Power operation 4. Good quality

Types of industrial machines:

1. Juki Sewing machines
2. Brother Sewing machines
3. Puaff Sewing and finishing machine
4. Pegasus Knitwear machine
5. Nagi Shing Fusing machine
6. West man Cutting machine
7. East man Cutting machine
8. Kansai special Waistband stitching machine
9. Durkop & Adler Sewing machines
10. Barudan & Tazima Embroidery machine

Type of fabrics:

1. Light weight (60gsm) Silk, rayon, and any thin fabric

2. Medium weight (60-240gsm) Cotton, terry cot, polyester etc.

3. Heavy weight (240-340gsm) Denim, Jeans

4. Extra duty (above 340gsm) Leather, Rexene etc.

Functions of sewing department

The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams which combine the required standard of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production. The performance of sewing means the achievement of strength, appearance, and aligned properties with an economical way. Assuming that the fabric is sew able and suitable for garments, this is related to five factors during manufacture.

1. The seam type which is a particular configuration of fabric

2. The stitch type which is a particular configuration of thread in the fabric

3. The sewing machine feeding mechanism which moves the fabric past the needle and enables a succession of stitches to be formed.

4. The needle which insert the thread into the fabric

5. The thread which forms the stitch which either holds the fabric together neatens it or decorates it.

The main objective of sewing department is to produce or assemble the garments in the required manner with required quality particulars and with low production cost and in achieving the required production within the period of requirement.

General and Specialised sewing Machines.

The garment industry is rest on sewing operations, which convert the fabric to garment. The sewing department needs skilled and trained operators as well as new and advanced machineries for its high productivity and quality.

In the RMG it uses a variety of sewing machines and accessories for the reduced work content and increased productivity. Some of the sewing machines which are used in are as follows,

Single needle lock stitch machine.

It produces a stitch type of Single Lock Stitch with fine quality in high speed of 5000 rpm

1. Type of machines: Single needle lock stitch

2. Type of feed: Drop feed

3. Sewing speed: 2500 to 4500 SPM

4. Needle: DB´1 or DA´1

5. Stitch length 0 – 5

6. Type of motor Clutch, 1/3 HP or 270 W

7. Lubrication Automatic with centralized pumping system

8. Pressure foot lifter 5 mm by hand, 13 mm by Knee

9. Hook set position Horizontal

10. Needle bar stroke 30.7mm

11. Type of belt V belt (41” or 42”)

12. Pulley 90mm

Double needle Lock stitch machine DNLS (LH-3168)

This is a two needle, needle feed lock stitch machine with organized split needle bar. LH-3128 & LH3168 everything are same but only corner stitching facility is in LH – 3168.

Specification:

Sl. No.	Particular	LH –3128	LH – 3168
1	Application	A-S.G	ASG
2	Swing speed	3000 SPM	3000 SPM
3	Stitch length	0 – 5 mm	0 – 5 mm
4	Needle	DP´5	DP´5
5	Needle bar stroke	33.4mm	33.4mm
6	Lubrication	Automatic vertical axis	Automatic vertical axis
7	Hook set	Regular hook	Regular hook
8	Pressure foot	5mm by hand 12mm by knee	5mm by hand 12mm by knee
9	Split needle bar	Not provided	Provided
10	Motor type	Clutch motor – 400W	Clutch motor 400W
11	Belt type	V belt 42”	V belt 42”
12	Pulley size	70mm (Max)	70mm (Max)
13	Hand wheel	90mm	90mm
14	Thread take up	Slide type	Slide type

Some of the advanced sewing machines used (by JUKI)

Sl No	Model No.	Purpose	Type of stitches	Needle system	Approximate price in Rs
1.	DDL – 5530	Single needle	Lock stitch	DB´1 or DA´1	24,000
2.	DDL – 5530 (cp – 330)	Single needle with ATT & computer unit	Lock stitch	DB´1 or DA´1	50,000
3.	LH – 3168 Split – bar LH - 3128	Double needle Double needle	Lock stitch	DP´5	95,000 85,000
4.	LBH - 781	Button Holing	Lock stitch	DP´5	1,25,000
5.	MB – 372	Button stitch	Chain stitch	TQ´1 or TQ´7	75,000
6.	LK – 1850	Bar tacking	Lock stitch	DP´5	11,000
7.	MS – 1190	Fee off the arm	Chain stitch	TV´1 TV´64	110,000
8.	MO – 3616	Over lock	Chain stitch	DC´1 DC´27	55,000
9.	DLM-5200	Edge cutting	Lock stitch	DB´1 or DA´1	45000
10.	LZ - 2288	Zig – Zag	Lock stitch	DB´1 or DA´1	45000
11.	MH - 380	Double needle	Chain stitch	TV´1	45000
12.	MH - 480	Single Needle	Chain stitch	- Do -	40000
13.	MB - 373	Button stitch with ATT	Chain stitch	TQ´1 TQ´7	80000
14.	MB - 377	Button stitch with knoll system	Chain stitch	TQ´1 TQ´7	80000
15.	BR - 10	ATT & Button feeder	Chain stitch	TQ´1 TQ´7	200000
16.	LK - 1851	Button stitch	Lock stitch	DP´17	150000
17.	BR - 20	Button stitch with button feeder	Lock stitch	DP´17	250000
18.	LK - 1900	Computer system	Lock stitch	DP´5	150000
19.	MFB Series	Eyelet button hole	Chain stitch	DO´558	150000
20.	APW Series	Automatic pocket welting	Lock stitch	DP´5	600000
21.	MS - 210C	Single needle embroidery	Lock stitch	DP´5	500000
22.	CB – 641	Hemming	Chain stitch	LW´6T	45000

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